There is renewed interest
in sustainability issues, ahead of ‘Rio +20’, the follow up to the UN
Environment conference of Rio 1992. What has
been called ‘sustainable development’ for the last twenty years is now often
referred to as the ‘Green Economy’. As before, one of the tools for its
promotion are markets for ‘sustainable products’. And of these, organic
products are one of the most prominent examples.
Certainly, there has been a tremendous increase in the market for various
sustainability schemes, such as organic and fair trade schemes, as well as
others like the Rainforest Alliance, the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), etc.
In the most developed market segments some of these schemes are taking
significant market shares. There is a tendency for people to assume that sustainability standards
represent something new, but that is not true.
Gandhi advocated the boycott of machine-made European clothing as it caused large-scale unemployment in India. He took to wearing hand-made cloth called Khadi that was inexpensive and suitable for poor Indians. Most importantly, it showed Indians how to be self-reliant by a symbolic act. His arguments are similar to arguments used today of sustainability proponents.
“Khadi is only seemingly expensive. I
have pointed out that it is wrong to compare khadi with other cloth by
comparing the prices of given lengths. The inexpensiveness of khadi consists in
the revolution of one's taste. The wearing of khadi replaces the conventional
idea of wearing clothes for ornament by that of wearing them for use. (Young India,
7-8-1924)”
There are still many
issues associated with the schemes that need to be discussed. ‘Can you trust them?’ is one of the
questions. On this matter ISEAL has worked hard to develop codes of good
practice. And in the organic sector there are many layers of watchmen all
watching each other over and above the constant criticism by competitors.
Compared to other claims in the market place,
the credibility and integrity of sustainability schemes is generally high.
‘How sustainable is the production?’ is another
increasingly common question. As the term sustainable’ is often badly defined, or
defined in hundreds of different ways, and everybody pays lip service to
sustainability, it is very hard to respond to such a question. Even systematic
and
standardised methods of
measuring sustainability, like Life Cycle Analysis, are ultimately based on
subjective values and depend on how much weight is given to different
parameters. The ultimate answers are not scientific but ideological.
‘Could the schemes be merged?’ is another common
question. It is often the same clients that ask this question who are
interested in the many facets of sustainability, and it is not so farfetched to
believe that there could be benefits in merging them. But reality speaks a very
different language, new sustainability
schemes emerge all the time. Those who call for schemes to merge do not really
understand that the main role of a scheme is to be a marketing tool for
differentiation.
Also, they don’t realise
that consumers are different. For some environment is the most important, for others personal health,
fairness or animal welfare is more important. For the
ethical vegan it can
hardly be acceptable to support a sustainability scheme that allows animal
products; while anti-globalisation activists would probably not approve schemes
built on free international trade.
Questions that are not asked often enough are:
• What is the role of a sustainability scheme in our
world?
• To what extent can we rely on markets to shape our
world?
• Under which conditions do they work and under which
don’t they work?
• Will fair trade or organic schemes really change the
bigger picture?
While Gandhi’s cloth was
a forceful symbol for self-reliance, in the end not many Indians wear hand-spun
cloth today. Perhaps buying organic products is more like a statement of how we
want the world to be; a statement of what is good and sometimes even a
statement of status, of being hip.
Most of the
sustainability schemes work purely as a marketing tool. Their need comes from
the market place which relies on a pricing process that does not internalise social
or environmental costs into the price of
products. This means that some consumers foot the bill for what essentially are market
failures, while other consumers are free-riders – that is they get the benefits
without contributing. What are the issues that are best dealt with by voluntary
markets and what are best dealt with by regulation, or by a combination?
For example, in carbon
offset trading the often-hyped voluntary markets (i.e. where a supplier claims
to be carbon neutral by buying offsets) represents only around 10% of the total
market value for carbon offsets, the rest is created by regulations. The
organic sector in Europe
is as much driven by political endeavour as it is by the market, which results
in measures such as direct subsidies, proclamation of areas dedicated for
organic farming (nature reserves, water-protection areas) and public
procurement. These issues should be discussed to a much greater extent within
the ‘sustainability industry’, rather than the detail of a particular standard, or another layer of supervision
(leader in The Organic Standard,
Issue 134)
Khadi means handspun and handwoven cloth. In 1918 Mahatma Gandhi
started his movement for Khadi as relief programme for the poor masses living
in India's villages. Spinning and weaving was elevated to an ideology for
self-reliance and selfgovernment. Every village shall plant and harvest its own
raw-materials for yarn, every woman and man shall engage in spinning and every
village shall weave whatever is needed for its own use. Gandhi saw it as the
end of dependency on foreign materials (symbolizing foreign rule) and thus
giving a first lesson or real independence. Raw materials at that time were
entirely exported to England and then re-imported as costly finished cloth,
depriving the local population of work and profits on it. Gandhi also felt that
in a county where manual labor was looked down upon, it was an occupation to
bring high and low, rich and poor together, to show them the dignity of
hand-labor. Thus Khadi is not mere a piece of cloth but a way of life. Readmore